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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 5:33 pm   
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So why doesn't VGA on the 1.6 work? Surely it still outputs the same stuff?

I admit that using a non-1.6 would be a lot easier. I could get the on/off working without an Arduino but it's more challenging so I want to do it this way. If there is no way with a 1.6, I might just repeat it with a different model.

About audio, I have confirmed (I think) that it is nothing to do with the PSU. I've tried putting shielding around it but that made no difference. If I touch the centre of the amp's input to the outside of the Xbox's output, I get all the interference that is added onto the real sound when they are on the same circuit. I had a similar problem with a different Xbox and a different amplifier. Not sure how to fix this one.

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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 10:10 am   
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Right well I've broken the HDD. It is getting ticking problems, but they are weird, especailly since you can hear the ticking two times louder through the speakers.

If I take the IDE cable out, power the system on and then plug the HDD back in, there are no problems. If I power it on while the IDE in connected, the ticking starts after I press the Xbox's power button.

>_<

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canadish
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 6:19 pm   
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Very cool thread, will be following this progress.
I myself have undertaken to try a laptop. What are the native resolutions supported by the xbox? I have an old lcd screen that I have an inverter and a controller board for. I will be utilizing it soon, just not to sure how it will work out. Got most of the supplies now that I need for a laptop. Made a vacuum former to knock out a couple of cases, one mini and something for the laptop.


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gouraami
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Post Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:56 pm   
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The way I understand it is that there is no software/drivers available for the Nvidia chip that is used on V1.6 (as it is only used in the xbox and wasn't released) and thus a bios can't be created that supports it.

But, I could be wrong, that is the way I understand why not.

Pitty about the hdd thing, I am not sure why it would do that


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 4:48 pm   
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The audio problems can be fixed by using a different battery for the screen (if I get one, sad laptop if I have no screen) and amp. I've got two Lithium batteries. The only problems is the wired them come out of them are really thin and hard to solder.

There is also the problem that the batteries' voltage output is variable and can be a lot lower than 12v so the electronics might not like it.

Just a free bump. Express any interest, it might get me actually doing something.

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quads
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Post Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 7:12 pm   
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You don't need to waste an arduino on this, you can build one for like 7 bucks. I'll see if I can find a link to a tut but it is quite simple, a couple caps and a crystal, no need for a 5v regulator as you can steal constant power from the psu. The sketch for it you can write in about five minutes, you'll steal ground for the switch on the mobo and run a transistor to the atmega to switch it. Only problem would be loading the sketch to the arduino, in which case you will still need to buy one if you don't have one, but you won't have to waste it in your project, just get a chip with a bootloader already installed Wink Let me know if you need help.


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 5:44 pm   
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Right. OK. I don't have any experience in Arduino stuff. Had a brief look at the programming stuff, seems pretty easy.

Where can I find all this stuff?

I might be changing the finished product to fit what I can actually get. I may be actually making something like a small computer, like on of those all-in-one PCs, only with an Xbox mobo and some other stuff in. It combines the benefits of doing this project with reality (not being able to get a stable voltage from batteries, or find a suitable screen). Could be quite good, I've seen one similar on a forum that looked sooo epic, but I can probably make it smaller than that one :D

I intend to have the mobo going diagonally across the machine so I can make it smaller, give it some sort of stand, bit like a big Wii with no disc drive. All the power stuff can go behind the mobo, away from the processors and the rest can go in front. I'd like to fit the speakers and amp in there somewhere but it might not be possible. Firstly, you get all the distortion stuff I've discovered and you wouldn't need audio in a box like this unless it was portable.

Because I'm going to have it 3D printed, the model can be as intricate and as complex as I like, with slide out filters and a duct to the fan, as long as I get it all planned out properly. Also means I can get everything really solid because everything fits together and isn't hacked together.

Fun eh?

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quads
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Post Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 8:50 pm   
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http://revoltlab.com/projects/perfduino/

this shows how to make an arduino, but you can do away with most of that shit. you don't need the breakout board they show, or the pin headers, or the led. So you buy an arduino uno for 25 bucks or whatever they are, and use that to program the chip. Then you build that chip into your box so you don't have to waste an arduino, as long as you have it on hand you can replicate it for a few dollars, just keeps you from having to use a real arduino in a project.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10524
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/536
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8571

and whatever else you need they got

keep in mind with arduino it takes a second or two to boot up- so you'd want to keep standby power to it, i.e. leave it running all the time. there is no on/off switch so you just give it power and it comes on.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/521

You'll use one of these to actually 'press' the power button on the xbox, run ground to one leg then the other to the switch, and then the base to the atmega to switch it. It all sounds complicated but it isn't. Be even easier if you just put the arduino actually in the project, which I would only do if you never plan to use one again. Also remember you can run the arduino on anything from 5 to like 17 volts or something.


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 6:19 pm   
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Right. I understood some of that XD

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tosduino-Nano-Arduino-Compatible-Brandnew-With-Free-USB-Cable-/230799921826?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bcbf52a2

Cheap Nano. I don't think of myself as a great solderer so I think I will take one of these and use it in the project. I'm more of a programmer for computers than electronic applications so I'll use it in the project.

Now that transistor thing sounds inetersting. I was going to use HIGH/LOW signals to press the power button, but this sounds decent. Can you sorta... explain it for dummies?

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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 6:24 pm   
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Quote:
you wouldn't need audio in a box like this unless it was portable.


I'm going to make the batteries and the amp into a little portable sound thing. Only use I can think of. Nice and simple as well as useful.

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quads
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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:16 am   
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Prehistoricman wrote:

Now that transistor thing sounds inetersting. I was going to use HIGH/LOW signals to press the power button, but this sounds decent. Can you sorta... explain it for dummies?


Wow that is a good price on that nano. Never thought to look at ebay.

You will call digitalWrite to press the power button. But if I remember right the button on the xbox grounds out when it is pressed, so you use a transistor, that way when turn on a pin, it switches the transistor, and that grounds the 'button'. That way you can just figure out what wires are what at the plug on the mobo for the daughterboard with the power button on it, cut that harness short and splice in and have it function as normal.

Keep in mind in your code your arduino will have to have a way of knowing if the xbox is on or off because the startup and shutdown sequences will be totally different. Also there is a ton of cool things available that work plug and play with it, like lcds Smile


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 6:59 pm   
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Wouldn't digitalWrite LOW be ground?

I think I will add some fade-in blue LEDs on startup and then fade out on shut down.

I'm still thinking on how it will know if the Xbox has been turned off. I thought to start with it could use the fan to know if there was any power going to that.

So, the program would:

have a function to fade in/out LEDs
have a function to press the Xbox's button
have an interrupt to detect button presses
have a loop to detect if the Xbox is turned off

I would store the Xbox's state in a variable and make it dependent on not having the Xbox's button pressed unexpectedly.

Sound good?

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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:15 pm   
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So if the digitalWrite thing wouldn't work, your transistor idea sounds great. I've heard that transistors are electronic switches so I can just connect one up to the power supply for turning that on and off too.

What sort of things, except LCDs, can I hook up to an arduino?

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quads
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Post Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 2:06 am   
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Yeah you digitalWrite to a pin connected to the transistor.

You can hook up anything you want to arduino. Would be cool to have some rgb leds lighting up the case that would turn from blue to red as the temp went up. You're only limited by your imagination with an arduino.


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 10:01 pm   
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Since I don't know how transistors work, how would I wire this up to the collector, emitter and base? And what sort of current tolerance does it need?
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