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Xbox-Hq.Com :: View topic - How To Replace DVD ROM Drive? - Xbox V1.0
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AceMcHammer
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Post Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 3:40 am   
Post subject: How To Replace DVD ROM Drive? - Xbox V1.0
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I actually went and bought a used Xbox for DVD ROM scavaging purposes many years ago to replace the original DVD ROM drive that came with my V1.0 Xbox and made sure from info at Xbox-scene regarding the serial number on the used Xbox that it had the best known DVD ROM drive of all the current Xbox's. I think it was a Toshiba. Not sure. My original DVD drive that was screwed up was a Thompson I think and was having massive trouble reading disks and the scavenged drive I replaced it with worked perfectly.

I'm trying to get the old Xbox in perfect working order like a museum piece. Right now, I got everything just about exactly like I want it. Except one thing. The DVD drive it's got in it won't open most of the time. I always have to get a paper clip and use it to manually eject the tray to put games in. It reads fine. It just won't open unless it's had a game in it and being read for a long time then the eject works on it.

I've read that you can use a regular PC DVD ROM drive in it IF you do a PCB swap on it. Are there any tutorials how to do this? I really would like to get a brand new drive in there, which is prob gonna need some modding.

Also, if I get a modded DVD drive to work will the retail Xbox dash be able to read from the drive. I like having my retail dash option. (for full functionality)


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ArchAngle
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Post Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 11:35 am   
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There are plenty of tutorials still out there if you Google but, by far, the easiest solution is to get the existing drive working again.

The Samsung drives (605B/F) are the ones most notorious for tray problems, either sticking shut or continually opening again when you close them.

The cause is twofold: the drive belt is slipping usually due to simple wear/tear stretching but that is exacerbated by the overly strong magnet used to clamp the disc around the spindle. That magnetic grip has to be broken every time the tray is being ejected so that the laser array can swing down from its reading position, clearing the tray so it can open.

The solution that often fixes the problem is just to replace the drive belt. That can be done without opening the Xbox but it is easier if you do.

The diameter of drive belts for the Samung and others is quite difficult to measure because they've been stretched and they're not going to be perfect circles either. However I had a solution to that and found that a used belt slipped easily over an old, round GB 1 coin.

That was 22.5mm diameter so the original diameter of an unstretched belt must have been under 23mm. My guess is 22mm so that's the size I recommend.

I've used belts sold as 20mm but if they're too tight that can affect the ejection system too and there are also difference due to the 'riubber' material used too. If it is too hard the belt might not grip as well slipping even though tighter around the drive pulleys.

Plenty of people say they've used plumbers 'O' ring seals as an effective and very cheap alternative to supposedly purpose designed drive belts. Those can be really silly prices on eBay (3.50 for a small rubber band = rip off). You can buy a 50 pack of 22mm 'O' rings seals for about the same price and they'll be round profile too which may give a better grip than the more typically square profile drive belts


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SPPV
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Post Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:42 pm   
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When it comes to replacing a drive its simply a matter of pulling the old one out and putting the new one in. The Toshiba drives are the latest model of XBOX drive and were used strictly for the final 1.6b production and for refurbs in the late part of the warranty support period.

With a PC drive you will no longer be able to use retail games only burned games. The PCB is easy just look where the power plugs into the XBOX DVD drive. You need that board. Put your PC drive in the XBOX hook up the IDE cable. Use a molex splitter to split the HDD power and plug in the PC drive. Plug the XBOX DVD power cable to the PCB and fire up the XBOX. It should pass disc check and load burned games.

The other option is getting one of a few PC drives that can be flashed with custom firmware. With these install after flashing is just like above. But these can also run retail games.

Firmware
http://www.mediafire.com/file/q9uynkj0uut7qiy/DVD.7z/file

There was a Samsung, a Philips and an LG that could be flashed. Google to find the model numbers


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AceMcHammer
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Post Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 5:11 pm   
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@ArchAngle;SPPV ---

Good options good info. Thanks yall!


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SPPV
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Post Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 1:45 am   
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One thing I forgot to mention there is one bastard version of XBOX. It has a power plug (also used for DVD check) that is different from the rest. The cable will be brownish as opposed to yellow. With those XBOX (I cant remember which, it was an early one pretty sure used a Thomson V2. Was a Thomson no matter what) You can only switch out the drive for another XBOX drive of the same model or do the PC DVD/PCB board trick. The rest the drives are interchangeable and can be a Sammy or Philips or Toshiba doesnt matter


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ArchAngle
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Post Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 12:12 pm   
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I thought there were only four main DVD drive types used in the Xbox:-

Thomson
Philips
Samsung (605B/605F)
Hitachi

I've seen claims about there being two different Philips versions, is that true?

Apart from the Samsungs did any of the other drives have different versions too?

I've never seen a Xbox disc drive just described as Toshiba. Is this just shorthand for the later 'Samsung' 605F (TSST: Toshiba Samsung Storage Technology)?

Personally I'm a fan of the Hitachi drives I have in two of my Xboxes. They do not read CD-R but bizarrely they do work with (Verbatim) CD-RW.and are good for everything DVD. But mainly its their mechanical reliabilty where they win for me.

Unlike all the Samsung, both 605B and 605F, drives I've used which have all developed tray eject/close problems the Hitachis have been perfect.

Only negative for me is that I have one game: Myst 4: Revelation which had a minor sound problem when played from the original disc. I didn't even realise it was a problem at the time but when I did, several years later, I eventually tracked down the culprit: the Hitachi disc drive.

Both my Xboxes with Hitachi disc drives produced the same sound problem and just with this particular game. In fact I've never come across any similar trouble since. But the fact is all other Xboxes play it perfectly from disc and when I installed it on the HDD of my two Hitachi drive fitted machines they both played it without sound issues too.

So it had to be the Hitachi drives. A weird quirk that has always bothered me.


Last edited by ArchAngle on Thu Jul 19, 2018 11:52 pm; edited 1 time in total


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SCARFACE
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Post Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 10:06 pm   
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yes i have this version he speaks of lol i have all the drives right now but can confirm that.
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SPPV
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Post Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 12:37 am   
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There is 4 manufacturers and a total of 7 drives on XBOX

2xThomson
2xSammy
2xPhilips
1xHitachi

You can spot the Philips by the back end. V1 has a flat back end, V2 which is the better version has an indented back end.. Also when it comes to burn fails/not working formats with Philips drives its not the media its the burn speed. If you have a Philips drive you need to check the slower is better mantra at the door. 8x for DVD and with CD (been a very long time since I burned a CD) but it was some high ass double digit number like 32x or 64x or some such. I swear by Philips, they have been my fav drive for years. Theres even a thread here gotta dig it up where I was fixing a XBOX for a guy and his kid had rammed a disc and a sandwich into the drive. The disc actually got caught by the motor and tore apart and yanked into the mechanisms along with a corned beef on rye. I tore it apart cleaned it up then put in a disc that looked like it had been attacked with a cheese grater and it still booted.

I just spotted the fly in the ointment. Thats a typo fgaux pas on my part. Its not Toshiba its Hitachi. Ignore that 100% mistake by me.


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ArchAngle
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Post Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 11:56 am   
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I did my own, quite extensive, compatibility etc tests on disc drives a few years ago as I have 8 working Xboxes.

Unfortunately I only have one Philips and one Thomson, the others I have two of each. Without another to act as a mean the Philips and Thomson results have to be taken in isolation.

What I can say is that the Thomson, my oldest disc drive, has never given me any trouble mechanically and it still gave near enough identical media compatibility results to both my Samsung 605F fitted machines. In fact better than one of them*.

The Philips, I've always been suspicious of as it is in the worst condition working used Xbox I've bought.

I suspect it was abused and of all the tests I did it was the only one which gave consistently inconsistent results. By which I mean that sometimes it would boot my test discs but on retesting exactly the same discs would refuse to boot and vice versa.

However it was still consistently reliable with DVD-R, which for me was the most useful information testing this drive produced. It confirmed yet again DVD-R as the only universally compatible media.

Interesting what you say about the burning speed, I assume you mean: slower is better. That is something I tested and only with the dodgy Philips was that really an issue.

My oldest Samsung 605F* threw up some inconsistencies at higher speeds too so I'm putting that and the Philips results down to their age/wear. But all the other drives really didn't care about the burning speed - I burned DVD-R at the lowest support speed (x4) and the highest (x16) - no difference, all worked.

That held true for all the other media as well: DVD-RW (x4 - x6), CD-R (x16 - x48), CD-RW (supports x10 only), DVD+RW (supports x4 only).

I always burn at the lowest supported speed out of habit but with most drives in good condition I proved to my satisfaction that burn speed is not important or irrelevant as the media type only support one speed anyway.


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NathanLuise
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Post Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:23 am   
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nice


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