Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 12:45 pm Post subject: 80mm Fan Upgrade Choice Help With Links
Hi all, I see from other posts that the stock Xbox Classic fan has a CFM of about 27 but one of the fans I found has less 20.2 and the other if im right has 53 im not sure what to use as voltage and amps go but the two I can get with a drive in the car are:
Which one is better or are they both as good as each other?
What do I do with the extra wire for the tacho should I keep it or remove it? _________________ Xbox Halo Green Limited Edition v1.4
Clock Cap Removed
AdmiralShlong V.I.P. Lifetime
Joined: Oct 01, 2014 Posts: 106 Location: CA, USA
Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 10:40 pm Post subject:
Standard 12V is what you are looking for, the amps are not as important. Anywhere between 0.5A and 1A is fine. Do not take off the yellow tachometer wire, there is no need. All my upgrade fans I left all three wires intact and they work excellently.
I highly recommend you do not consider anything by Fractal Design. The rifle bearings they use are only better in lifetime than the worst of bearings, the sleeve. Not only do they not last as long as hydro, mag-lev, or SSO bearings, but they are only silent until the fan gets past 50% speed. After that they are some of the noisiest fans I have ever heard, they look good, but are cheap for many reasons. The flow isn't worth it either.
I personally stick to the tried and true Xilence 80mm hydro bearing, but if those are your only two choices go for the Noctua. Their bearings are excellent, the flow is all you need, they last long, and they run silent all the way. Just remember, when installing the fan use a small hacksaw when making your cuts on the HDD and CD drive caddies! _________________ 320GB ST3320620A 7200RPM 16MB Cache
GELID GC-Extreme Thermal Compound
X-DU 512KB Chip & Toggle Switch
StarTech 80 wire UATA Cable
XBMC 3.5.3 Dashboard
Taiyo Yuden Clock Cap
80mm Noctua SSO2
128MB DDR RAM
Joined: Oct 04, 2005 Posts: 513 Location: OH Canada
Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:45 pm Post subject:
I trimmed the metal as well. Pretty much all of it. Just left most of it under the board for ground points. no rf interference at all.
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