Posted: Tue May 02, 2017 4:02 am Post subject: Surface Mount Component Came Off Motherboard Help
I have had a small surface mount component break off the motherboard I have pictures and its right near the clock capacitor so Im hoping it has something to do with the clock capacitor charging circuit, it is a brown component with just the stripes at both ends with no other markings and the place it came from had "C7G7" on the motherboard. I still have it but I dont know if it has to be soldered on in a certain way like a diod. The clock cap had leaked a lot and I just finished its white vinegar clean when it broke off. Do I need this component or do I need to solder it back on if so can it be put on anyway or is there polarity?
Sorry I dont know the version of this motherboard but I have a picture of it as above, it didnt have a fan on the GPU or CPU so I dont think its a Ver 1.0 _________________ Xbox Halo Green Limited Edition v1.4
Clock Cap Removed
Soft modded
UnleashX Dashboard
AdmiralShlong V.I.P. Lifetime
Joined: Oct 01, 2014 Posts: 111 Location: USA
Posted: Sat May 13, 2017 6:29 pm Post subject: Re: Surface Mount Component Came Off Motherboard Help
GabrielK wrote:
Do I need this component or do I need to solder it back on if so can it be put on anyway or is there polarity?
Sorry I dont know the version of this motherboard
Don't get your hopes up about a repair. You may have either triggered a FRAG code or blacked out the board in question.
What you just ripped off your board is a resistor to the best of my knowledge. I've never busted one off myself but every resistor on any Xbox board version as far as I know is a primary component. Meaning the board will refuse to boot or will boot with critical error code without it. The only way to verify this is to plug everything in and try to boot.
If it is a secondary component you will be able to boot and everything might actually run fine depending on what that resistor is attributed to.
Try booting it as is first. If it won't boot you may not have any options other than keep the board for scraps and spare parts. This is because when you physically detach components like this one without properly desoldering them you can fracture the contacts in the components themselves and the contacts on the actual board. If this happens to the board and it's a primary component, the board is irreparable and a scrap heap. If the components contact is fractured, then you just need a fresh one from another board. So you'll want to have a 70W soldering iron with a sharp tip nearby in case.
The polarity question though I am unsure. If it is a resistor like I'm assuming, then that sucks for you because they are usually polarity sensitive, but clearly these ones aren't labelled. Your best bet if you can save this mess of a situation is to desolder one from another board in the same spot and without turning or flipping or dropping it, place and solder it on to the board you want to save.
The solder pads I saw in the picture look really intact though! There is a considerable chance your board is still good and you can save this. I would try it with a freshly desoldered one like I mentioned if I were you. Not just because of polarity, but that one you took off looks damaged and not worth the effort. Good Luck! _________________ 320GB ST3320620A 7200RPM 16MB Cache
GELID GC-Extreme Thermal Compound
X-DU 512KB Chip & Toggle Switch
StarTech 80 wire UATA Cable
XBMC 3.5.3 Dashboard
Taiyo Yuden Clock Cap
80mm Noctua SSO2
128MB DDR RAM
iND-BiOS 5004
PHILIPS S6KM
GabrielK Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.0 & Corona V5 Modded: X-DU ModChip & TSOP
Joined: Jun 28, 2016 Posts: 54
Posted: Mon May 15, 2017 10:58 am Post subject:
Thanks Admiral Dongus it sounds to be fubar but I will keep it so that one day I can use the memory chips to upgrade my green Halo edition to 128MB and I'll hang the motherboard on my wall to go with my other time pieces from the 80's and 90's, a quick question if you are reading this is are all the Samsung ram chips the same? I think from memory my Halo edition is a version 1.4 and the doner board is somewhere between 1.1 and 1.5 because it has a two row power plug ie not a 1.0 and the clock cap is not a gold Nichicon near the IDE bus so its not a 1.6 _________________ Xbox Halo Green Limited Edition v1.4
Clock Cap Removed
Soft modded
UnleashX Dashboard
AdmiralShlong V.I.P. Lifetime
Joined: Oct 01, 2014 Posts: 111 Location: USA
Posted: Mon May 15, 2017 9:42 pm Post subject:
That's a fine idea but I wouldn't advise it. I meant keep it for scraps like caps and resistors.
To answer your question, no not all Samsung 16MB chips are the same. The difference is just the firmware, but still, do not cross them. To ID the firmware check the last digit before the -QC50. For example, all 1.0's and 1.1's use K4D263238M-QC50 chips. Other common ones are F or L, can't remember which version boards though. The three digit number next to Samsung is just a production lot number, no importance at all.
If you want to try extracting chips from a board, I won't stop you. It's usually not worth it though. It's much harder removing chips without snapping or badly bending their leeds than it is to solder on new chips without busting a resitor off. It's also possible to pull a leed out of the chips interior without knowing, that is the worst to me. Especially when you find out after you soldered the chip on. _________________ 320GB ST3320620A 7200RPM 16MB Cache
GELID GC-Extreme Thermal Compound
X-DU 512KB Chip & Toggle Switch
StarTech 80 wire UATA Cable
XBMC 3.5.3 Dashboard
Taiyo Yuden Clock Cap
80mm Noctua SSO2
128MB DDR RAM
iND-BiOS 5004
PHILIPS S6KM
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