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Xbox-Hq.Com :: View topic - My latest project: the laptop Xbox
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Prehistoricman
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Xbox Version: 1.6 crystal
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Post Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 12:08 pm   
Post subject: My latest project: the laptop Xbox
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I hear it might be second in the world.

Well I'm doing very well. Buying components and stuff all the time. Got half of it already. Below are some pictures of it some components I have so far and the last one is the whole thing assembled.

Of course I need you guys to help me. Is anybody experienced in Arduino? I need a Nano to get the Xbox's startup and shutdown configured properly.

Can anybody tell me how to get a little battery wired to the Xbox to keep its clock going without power into the mobo?

How do I stop the Xbox's power supply interfering with the audio? Currently, it makes noise whenever the Xbox does anything and it distorts quite a bit.

How do I get the voltage into the PSU always close to 12v? I noticed that once these batteries are down even a small bit they go to around 10v which just won't turn the Xbox on.

I'm going to be drilling some holes into the speakers (below) to get a bit more bass and less tinniness. Will this work?

If you have anything on any of those questions, don't hesitate to post about it. I would like comments and some motoivation :D

I also added my newest version of my modded PMIII skin for XBMC which is now fully compatible with the latest version.

Start at the bottom of the post to get the pictures in order. I didn't see that they would be like they are...

BTW Xbox-HQ rocks



100_1737.JPG
 Description:
Xbox plugged into an ATX supply
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100_1737.JPG



100_1742.JPG
 Description:
Random Intel heatsink
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100_1750.JPG
 Description:
First attempt at cutting it to size
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100_1855.JPG
 Description:
Jigsaw did the trick
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100_1855.JPG



100_1856.JPG
 Description:
The mobile PSU with a little heatsink I made on the capacitor in the middle
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100_1856.JPG



100_1854.JPG
 Description:
Amplifier
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100_1852.JPG
 Description:
Little speakers (but they are great!)
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100_1852.JPG



100_1853.JPG
 Description:
Laptop fan
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100_1853.JPG



100_1859.JPG
 Description:
Everything so far put together
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100_1859.JPG



skin.zip
 Description:
The modded PMIII skin

Download
 Filename:  skin.zip
 Filesize:  13.56 MB
 Downloaded:  1960 Time(s)


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SPPV
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Post Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 1:05 am   
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I can answer a few of your questions

1) The audio interference is caused by magnetic interference so you need to shield the PSU so it cant radiate. Steel and lead both work. Brass should as well.

2) There is a way to hook in a battery straight to the board just like on a PC. Theres a thread at www.xbmc4xbox.uk.org about it. Although if the reason you want the time to stay set is because of clock loop, thats not an issue with NKPatcher based softmods


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:17 pm   
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I use modchips, so I don't ever have to worry about clock loop, whatever that is (I forgot ._.)

Do you mean the 12v batteries that power the laptop can be used to make the clock work?

And why I only has one reply?

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SPPV
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Post Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:05 pm   
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It was the same idea as the BIOS battery on a PC. I guess the pins are there they just never actualy put the little battery holder or whatever on it. XMAN (he made NKPatcher11) and a few others were talking about it and that it could be used to power a clock or LCD


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 4:06 pm   
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Yeah I've seen some of his clocks from when I used to hang around their site.

So about the audio interference. Are you sure? As you can see in the first picture, the amplifier isn't right next to the PSU. And the amp is connected to the mains PSU (the big tower thing on the left) and not the tiny PSU.

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gouraami
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Post Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:23 pm   
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I see it is a 1.6 - How do you have the mobile PSU connected? When I had mine connected to a ATX I just had it connected to the correct pins on the mobo, thus manually switching off the ATX. I couldn't find a decent schematic to make it work correctly. Is the mobile psu just connected to the correct pins (so if it is plugged in it is on?) or have you got it sorted out correctly? If it isn't you will burn out the CPU if the xbox shuts down and the psu is plugged in as the CPU then continually gets power and will burn out. I had a few very close cases when mine almost burned out.

I had another look at it (the psu)... looks good, did you make it?

Speakers, unfortunately it doesnít work that way, drilling holes in the casing won't do much, probably make it worse. A hole means nothing, a tube of the correct length going into it might be able to make it better, but there is no space. Sealed is the next best option. I hope you havenít drilled yet...

I will give your modded skin a try, thanks!


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SPPV
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Post Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:45 pm   
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Im 100% sure on the magnetic interference. Doesnt have to be right beside to cause issues. Take all the metal shielding out of an XBOX turn it on and set it a foot from a CRT TV to see what I mean Very Happy


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forahobby
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Post Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 4:19 am   
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this should turn out nice, can't wait to read some more. Smile
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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 4:32 pm   
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gouraami wrote:
I see it is a 1.6 - How do you have the mobile PSU connected? When I had mine connected to a ATX I just had it connected to the correct pins on the mobo, thus manually switching off the ATX. I couldn't find a decent schematic to make it work correctly. Is the mobile psu just connected to the correct pins (so if it is plugged in it is on?) or have you got it sorted out correctly?

No, it's just a direct connection. I'm going to rig it up to an Arduino Nano to get all the startup and shutdown working perfectly.

gouraami wrote:
I had another look at it (the psu)... looks good, did you make it?

No way, I'm not that good :D
eBay is your friend.
Here is something similar.

gouraami wrote:
Speakers, unfortunately it doesnít work that way, drilling holes in the casing won't do much, probably make it worse. A hole means nothing, a tube of the correct length going into it might be able to make it better, but there is no space. Sealed is the next best option. I hope you havenít drilled yet...

You sure? Wouldn't it act as a reflex for the speaker? When I have small speakers and I cover up the hole in the back, the sound quality is terrible.
Somebody suggested I should drill right through the center of the speaker! There's no way I'm going to do that.

SPPV wrote:
Im 100% sure on the magnetic interference. Doesnt have to be right beside to cause issues.

Hmm OK. I would be sure it was because it's all on the same circuit but I will try using some of the Xbox's old shieding to cover the PSU.

I got an OK on the batteries today. I got two 6.8 AH batteries. Should power it for about 3 hours. I asked the guys who sold the batteries if I could charge and use the batteries at the same time. They said it would damage them. I can't see how, so I'm not sure if I will test it anyway.

Still waiting for the guys to reply back on the LCD screen. Might give them a bit of hassle to tell me any progress.

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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 4:38 pm   
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Hey I just remembered something about when I was messing with the tiny PSU.

Once, I accidently mixed the three white wires connected to the mobo up :/ I think the ground got 5v, 12v got 5v and 5v got ground. The bigger PSU made a massive jolting sound and the Xbox lit up for a split second. After I changed the three white wires over again they were all in the right places but this time the PSU turned itself on without me shorting green and black. That is the only thing that got damaged by the bad wiring. So I need to buy another tiny PSU because I need to have the ATX on/off.

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gouraami
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 1:17 pm   
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The holes you cover up have been specially designed, they are not just any holes.

That is going to be your problem with the PSU. The same problem I had. In the way it is connected now the CPU will overheat once off and the 12V in is still present. Your battery will be drained in no time if it is off. The problem is that the xbox doesn't work the same way as a PC. It has a 5v stdby and one of the signals are inverted. PC is 3.3V stdby and is not inverted. Search the net, there are quite a few posts about it but never an actual solution.

Finding a xbox v1.1 - 1.5 mobo would be you best bet, there are diagrams available for those boards to make it compatible with an ATX.


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:15 pm   
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'No, it's just a direct connection. I'm going to rig it up to an Arduino Nano to get all the startup and shutdown working perfectly.'

By this I did mean it would turn off the Xbox completely leaving only the Nano online until you turn off the batteries.

Here is how it works:

You turn on the batteries with a switch.
You press a button which is connected to the Arduino.
The Arduino then turns on the PSU, waits a second or so and then powers on the Xbox by 'pressing' the button.
Xbox starts up as usual.

You press the on/off button.
The Arduino 'presses' the Xbox's button and waits for it to turn off.
It then turns off the PSU.
If you want to put the laptop away you turn the switch. Otherwise, just press the button again.

"You have pressed this button. Please do not press this button again."

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gouraami
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 1:45 pm   
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That is a good idea,I am glad you sorted that out


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Prehistoricman
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Post Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:35 pm   
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Bad news on the screen front. It might cost me 1000+ dollars to get a right sized screen that natively supports component.

I thought about buying a slim 12v LED-LCD screen with HD and component but then I discovered they didn't exist :/ Or at least, I couldn't find one.

Help?

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gouraami
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Post Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 5:20 pm   
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The only thing I can think of is getting another Mobo one of the older ones so that you can add VGA support


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