ruskalaka Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.2 Modded: DUOX 2 cromwell
Joined: Sep 14, 2008 Posts: 71
Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 6:05 am Post subject: HELP DEAD XBOX
Hello can you help me with my xbox I will reward whoever can help me with a
DUO X2 cromwell chip Brandnew!
Heres what happened I was playing it about 5 years ago then about
after 2 months of playing the xbox fell on the floor when i tried
to boot it up the HDD started clicking It was trashed so I bought
the duo x2 cromwell and installed it not knowing that the d0 point
was not right! so i booted it up then i booted up and came up with
the normal green x boot screen so I left it there then about a month
ago I decided to boot it up then there was nothing only the flashing
orange led's but about 5 years ago it booted up ok I did nothing to
it in that time it was sitting in my desk in the room and suddenly
when I booted it up to my supprise it showed the flashing orange
led's so it cant be a solder splash or cut trace bec. i didn't do
anything to it it was just sitting on my desk what could have happened???
It also did not get wet!
(Just Today)
When I was disassembling the xbox earlier i took out the metal RF shield and put back the xbox without it in!
so it had no metal shell and the BT point was not soldered in for some reason when i turned it on
It booted up with the green x and then the error screen it showed in the upper lefthand corner number 07
I booted it up several times just to make sure then the last 5 times I turned it on the sound was off but
the animation (green x) still showed but no sound then i turned it off and soldered the BT point back in
and tried to turn it on then the orange flashing led came back!
Any ideas?
wes213 Administrator
Joined: Feb 04, 2007 Posts: 10520 Location: Harrisonburg V.A.
Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 4:06 pm Post subject:
Something must be bridged some ware since thats really the only thing that will give you the flashing orange light.
Pleas don't double post.
ruskalaka Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.2 Modded: DUOX 2 cromwell
Joined: Sep 14, 2008 Posts: 71
Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 10:27 pm Post subject:
Sorry for the double posts did not know were to post thanx for telling me BTW
But back to my xbox about 5 years ago it turned on ( with DUOX 2 installed but the D0 point was not soldered right!) it booted up with the M$ boot screen GREEN X and error 07 so i turned it off and put it on my desk doing nothing it did not get wet and i did not do any soldering to it I did not do ANYTHING so the other day (5 years later) I decided to have a look at it when i tried to boot it up to my surprise it flashed orange but the last time i switched it on 5 years ago it worked fine how can that be???
I double checked and looked for splashes and bridges but nothing could it be loose components or faulty components???
Any answers would be appreciated!
wes213 Administrator
Joined: Feb 04, 2007 Posts: 10520 Location: Harrisonburg V.A.
Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:06 am Post subject:
Yeah man i would say loose or faulty since you have had it setting for so long.
Hard to say really since a flashing orange can be lots of things.
ruskalaka Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.2 Modded: DUOX 2 cromwell
Joined: Sep 14, 2008 Posts: 71
Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:19 am Post subject:
KK can you help me there on how to detect what the prob is thanx
ruskalaka Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.2 Modded: DUOX 2 cromwell
Joined: Sep 14, 2008 Posts: 71
Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:41 am Post subject:
I think I've found the problem while I was looking around the board I noticed some leakage on the board it was coming from a capacitor so i desoldered the capacitor and sure enough it was the one that was leaking so I took a picture of where it was on the board hoping some one could help me fix this which capacitors would also work as an alternative would the box boot up without it or what?
Please look at the pic to see where it was positioned
It said on the capacitor itself 2.5v 1F Series B Powerstor Aerogel 2302-1
And is it OK to use acetone to clean up the MoBo where it leaked?
capacitor.JPG
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deltaarmstrong2000 Moderator
Joined: Oct 04, 2005 Posts: 513 Location: OH Canada
Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:39 pm Post subject:
I would recommend using 99% iso alcohol to clean it up. As well, if you are a good enough with the solder pencil, redo the solder joints around the cap on the transistors and look for any trace breaks. If the electrolytic acid was on the board long enough it might have eaten away on some traces, but hopefully not. Another thing to check for is at the front of the board underside of the controller ports check for any broken traces there as well. With it sitting for so long it may have naturally corroded and broke a couple of traces there as well. Seen it on a couple of the early v1.0 v1.1 xboxs. Not your fault, it's just time getting to it. Oh ya, wash your hands after the clean up. It's acid you're playing with and even if touch something, the fingerprint may leave a residue somewhere else. I know you're smart enough to do that, but sometimes a friendly reminder is a good thing
Delta
Just looked at the picture a bit closer, is the cap under the one removed domed on the top, if so replace it as well. Could be an optical illusion with the flash. c6g3 is the number I believe.
ruskalaka Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.2 Modded: DUOX 2 cromwell
Joined: Sep 14, 2008 Posts: 71
Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:22 am Post subject:
I only have 70% alcohol sir is that alright ?
The XBOX flashes orange when trying to switch on
How can I check for other faulty capacitors???
There is a clear whiteish residue on random parts of the board is this bad???
Some tracks are exposed but not broken
BTW i dont have the equipment to resolder that transistor sorry
wes213 Administrator
Joined: Feb 04, 2007 Posts: 10520 Location: Harrisonburg V.A.
Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 1:36 pm Post subject:
You will need an Ohm meter to check the capacitors and the residue is fine.
ruskalaka Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.2 Modded: DUOX 2 cromwell
Joined: Sep 14, 2008 Posts: 71
Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 1:51 pm Post subject:
I have a digital multimeter but which setings to use ???
Could the flashing orange leds have anything to do with the A/V ???
wes213 Administrator
Joined: Feb 04, 2007 Posts: 10520 Location: Harrisonburg V.A.
Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 1:58 pm Post subject:
Orange and Green Flashing -
Well this error is specifically telling you the xbox can't find an AV cable connected to this unit if you do have one then odds are your AV cable is damaged (a frayed or damaged wire). Replace your AV cables and your good to go.
Some DMMs have modes for capacitor testing. These work fairly well to determine approximate uF rating. However, for most applications, they do not test at anywhere near the normal working voltage or test for leakage. Normally, this type of testing requires disconnecting at least one lead of the suspect capacitor from the circuit to get a reasonably accurate reading - or any reading at all. However, newer models may also do a decent job of testing capacitors in-circuit. Of course, all power must be removed and the capacitors should be discharged. This will generally work as long as the components attached to the capacitor are either semiconductors (which won't conduct with the low test voltage) or passive components with a high enough impedance to not load the tester too much. The reading may not be as accurate in-circuit, but probably won't result in a false negative - calling a capacitor good that is bad. But I don't know which models are better in this regard.
CAUTION: For this and any other testing of large capacitors and/or capacitors in power supply, power amplifier, or similar circuits, make sure the capacitor is fully discharged or else your multimeter may be damaged or destroyed!
However, a VOM or DMM without capacitance ranges can make certain types of tests.
For small caps (like 0.01 uf or less), about all you can really test is for shorts or leakage. (However, on an analog multimeter on the high ohms scale you may see a momentary deflection when you touch the probes to the capacitor or reverse them. A DMM may not provide any indication at all.) Any capacitor that measures a few ohms or less is bad. Most should test infinite even on the highest resistance range.
For electrolytics in the uF range or above, you should be able to see the cap charge when you use a high ohms scale with the proper polarity - the resistance will increase until it goes to (nearly) infinity. If the capacitor is shorted, then it will never charge. If it is open, the resistance will be infinite immediately and won't change. If the polarity of the probes is reversed, it will not charge properly either - determine the polarity of your meter and mark it - they are not all the same. Red is usually **negative** with (analog) VOMs but **positive** with most DMMs, for example. Confirm with a marked diode - a low reading across a good diode (VOM on ohms or DMM on diode test) indicates that the positive lead is on the anode (triangle) and negative lead is on the cathode (bar).
If the resistance never goes very high, the capacitor is leaky.
The best way to really test a capacitor is to substitute a known good one. A VOM or DMM will not test the cap under normal operating conditions or at its full rated voltage. However, it is a quick way of finding major faults.
A simple way of determining the capacitance fairly accurately is to build an oscillator using a 555 timer. Substitute the cap in the circuit and then calculate the C value from the frequency. With a few resistor values, this will work over quite a wide range.
Alternatively, using a DC power supply and series resistor, capacitance can be calculated by measuring the rise time to 63% of the power supply voltage from T=RC or C=T/R.
deltaarmstrong2000 Moderator
Joined: Oct 04, 2005 Posts: 513 Location: OH Canada
Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 2:53 pm Post subject:
you've already got the equipment to resolder the transistors, just use the soldering iron that you used to desolder the capacitor. I've got an in circuit tester to test the caps, but it wasn't cheap. Just do what you did before an look for any visual defects like a domed top or swollen/leaky caps. This is not a high voltage system, well the power supply is, but I don't think the caps have dried up quite yet so a resistance check is not needed at this point. Did you already resolder the cap in before looking for the flashing yellow ring? Have you changed the color of the ring in any of your settings. Is the chip back in it? Make sure you have the capacitor back in, then see what the system does and let's go from there.
ruskalaka Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.2 Modded: DUOX 2 cromwell
Joined: Sep 14, 2008 Posts: 71
Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:18 am Post subject:
I cant see any other defects I cant find a replacement cap anywhere local so there is nothing in place yet i haven't changed any colors or leds,
Yes the chip is back in it just flashes orange
deltaarmstrong2000 Moderator
Joined: Oct 04, 2005 Posts: 513 Location: OH Canada
Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:38 am Post subject:
That is a more uncommon chip 5volt 1farad cap. I was gonna suggest a dead computer motherboard to salvage, but off the top of my head I don't remember seeing that size of cap recently. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the nvidia chip processing, which could explain the bad video/orange ring. I strongly suggest in trying to locate a capacitor, then we can move on. Digikey is a good place to order electronic repair parts. It might cost a sweet penny, but at least you will know so far so good. Do you use a pin header with the chip, or solder it right onto the board itself, and what version xbox.
ruskalaka Xbox-HQ Member Xbox Version: 1.2 Modded: DUOX 2 cromwell
Joined: Sep 14, 2008 Posts: 71
Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 4:56 am Post subject:
2.5v sir 1 farad I couln't find it on any other elecrtronic board I had I'll try ordering it the city maybe there
Yep used pinheader in using modchip
1.2 MoBo version
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