Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 1:04 pm Post subject: Swap xbox power supply with a PC power supply
I have an xbox that has the same molex connector that a regular pc has (2 rows of 8 white clip-in molex) I assume I have burned the fuse in my xbox p.s. but it is the encapsulated ceramic kind and its covered in so much isolation goo that i dont even want to deal with it.
What I am wondering is if the voltages are the same. If so I can just plug in my extra pc p.s. and use it instead... sounds too simple.. but the plug fits. I am a bit wary about just firing it up w/o knowing the voltages are the same or not...
anyone knowledgeable on this subject?
Thanks in advance.... ///MindsEye
Andrewfrink V.I.P. Lifetime
Joined: Jul 25, 2004 Posts: 389 Location: Tucson, AZ
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 3:52 pm Post subject:
dont know the voltage but I would try submitting a VIP support ticket.....then all the admins would see your question and Im sure they can help
thedude2004 Xbox-HQ Experienced Xbox Version: Xbox v1.2 & 1.4 Modded: SID 2.0
Joined: Mar 02, 2005 Posts: 106 Location: Liverpool, UK
Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 12:36 pm Post subject:
If I remember right the xbox is a varient on an ITX form factor and takes a 137W psu, but it uses standard voltages so it is compatable with standard IDE and USB equipment. The only issues would be with space inside the case and overheating, pc power supplies (except those from Cube PC's) generally have a higher wattage rating, which would need more cooling
Scourge Xbox-HQ Freak
Joined: Nov 08, 2004 Posts: 571 Location: Georgia, USA
Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 1:45 pm Post subject:
I would test your voltages first. THe output will be the same, the color coding should be the same as well, however I would play it safe and measure it first. You MAY need to move around a few pins on the molex connector.
But alas teh powersupply wont fit into the Xbox case unless you ditch the case alltogether.
The easiest solution to this problem is to replace that fuse... allot less time and money used for a potentially small problem. To take off the white gunk just whittle away carefully at it with an Xacto knife.
To see if your fuse is infact blown place a multimeter probe at either end of the fuse. Measure resistance (20ohm scale) If it is good you will either get a really low number or "0" if its bad the number will either be too large to display or there will be an open circuit.
Good luck! _________________ -Scourge "Rx = +/_\"
a.k.a. President Skroob
The electronic ninja.
Xbox v1.6
Xenium Ice XOS v2.3
Xtender: Stock HDD+300G+300G
BIOS: Evox M8_16+
Dash: UX
blighty Xbox-HQ Freak Xbox Version: Xbox v1.6 Modded: Xenium Ice
Joined: Nov 27, 2004 Posts: 881
Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 3:03 pm Post subject:
I was trying to do this some time
ago myself, but there is quite a
small circuit board that you need
to either build or buy that deals
with the missing POK (or something)
wire. this missing wire is the
one that tells your hdd that the
power is going off when you turn
it off. If you leave this out
your hdd will be at risk.
I couldn't be bothered to build
or source the circuit so i can't
say any more on the subject other
than check out scifikg.com for
more info and pictures.
bLiGhTy. _________________ [IMG]http://oi39.tinypic.com/25ins5y.jpg[/IMG]
Scourge Xbox-HQ Freak
Joined: Nov 08, 2004 Posts: 571 Location: Georgia, USA
Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2005 4:37 pm Post subject:
Im going to dish out the important facts so you dont have to drudge as much:
From X-S:
Quote:
The 1 line that is different in an Xbox (compared to an ATX) PSU is the stanby line. The Xbox uses 3v, while the ATX spec uses 5v. I had hoped that by simply regulating the 5v SB line from the ATX down to 3v, it would work with an Xbox. However, this hasn't worked in my experiments.
Here is another interesting excerpt from that thread:
Quote:
PS-ON signal (enable main output) for ATX is active-low and PS-ON signal for XBOX is active-high. If you want to use ATX power supply on XBOX, you have to reverse PS-ON signal.
I think that "grounded-emitter circuit" can reverse PS-ON signal.
The other thing is 3VSB voltage.
There is 3VSB but this voltage is not 3V.
Power supply specification, which is issued by MS, mentions that 3VSB is +3.3V typical (Minimum +3.14V and Maximum +3.47V).
This is a great post on X-S's behalf, but I must interject, MOST transistor circuits are "grounded emitter circuits". Transistors can sink more current than they can provide, so usually the component is hooked up to the Collector side of the transistor (imagine sticking a switch on the ground side of a light instead of the voltage source). To make a emitter driven circuit you have to buy special transistors (I have a few for a wicked lighting mod comming soon!).
When used as an inverter the annode (+) of the component is hooked up to the + voltage side and the cathode (-) end is grounded instead of being hooked up to collector. This makes it so that (keep in mind current frows from ground to the source) when the transistor is "off" current will flow from ground through the connected component, and when "on" the current will follow the easiest route through the transistor.
Poor guy though, the poster is a power supply engeneer. The job I hope I dont end up with when I graduate... Many of my EE teachers were formerly in power distribution and 1 actually designed power supplies. He hated it. Its what made them want become professors before retirement.
Anyways, that was hella off topic!
Here is what POK is:
Quote:
POK signal means that "The PSU shall output a Power OK (POK) signal to indicate that the 3.3V and 5V outputs are both above the minimum output voltage level, and that sufficient energy is stored in the converter primary circuit to guarantee the outputs to be valid for a time not less than the minimum holdup time specified. This signal shall utilize 3.3V logic levels."
Important consideration:
Quote:
Modding the PSU is a risky thing, and shouldn't be taken too lightly. I think that if somebody needs a hold-my-hand tutorial to do it, then maybe that person is better off not trying. No offense, but like I said, it's risky.
Which is where I say what ModGod says often, dont blame us if you kill your Xbox, it worked for us (or these other people) but it might not work for you. If you feel the slightest bit confused then you are better off buying a new fuse or new powersupply. The ATX powersupply mod costs $10 in materials, a fuse costs $1.50 at most (if you are forced to buy a pack), a new Xbox Power Supply cost $25, OR a used Xbox at Gamestop costs $129 (if things go wrong). Weigh out your options carefully.
Also keep in mind some of the components required are surface mount (ouch) thoes arent any fun to solder on.
And here are the schematics:
I hope this helps you make an informed desision. _________________ -Scourge "Rx = +/_\"
a.k.a. President Skroob
The electronic ninja.
Xbox v1.6
Xenium Ice XOS v2.3
Xtender: Stock HDD+300G+300G
BIOS: Evox M8_16+
Dash: UX
blighty Xbox-HQ Freak Xbox Version: Xbox v1.6 Modded: Xenium Ice
Joined: Nov 27, 2004 Posts: 881
Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2005 1:02 am Post subject:
yeah man that`s what i ment,
Even looking through all of it again I still can`t
be botherd to build it. It makes no diffrence unless
you don`t have a xbox ps and you do have an
old pc ps. I cut the xbox base up enough so the
base screwed into the pc case giving me good & safe
mounting points for the mobo and the ps.
guess i was lucky that everything lined up right ,
as the panel on the back of the pc were the nic and
vid cards go was removed and now the whole rear of the xbox
sits neatly at the back.
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