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ArchAngle
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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:24 pm   
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Remember once the cloning from master (old HDD) to slave (new HDD) has finished you need to go back to the Chimp menu and choose the lock SLAVE drive option. I always use lock from MB.

I'm hoping you've accidentally chosen the wrong option or lock master drive option because if not it might be that the new HDD isn't lockable. That is a bit of a problem.

Onced locked you exit and shutdown. Swap the jumper on the new HDD from slave to master and install it.


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dingdongyo
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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 3:24 am   
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Thank you so much for all the help again. I've uploaded a few clips to youtube to show what I'm running into. Hopefully the visuals will help diagnose this.

Here's the screen showing both drives recognized during the IDE device scan:


Here's what happens when i try to clone the drive. I think it goes way too fast to be doing anything productive.


Here's the weird error I get when attempting to lock the drive.


I've even switched the IDE cable out to an 80 wire, but it didn't change anything. Does this look like an unlockable drive?


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ArchAngle
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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 6:11 pm   
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Clearly something isn't right - the cloning process from a retail HDD should take several minutes not seconds and there should be other screens shown before the cloning actually starts.

Its a 2TB Seagate Barracuda Green SATA HDD yes?

What type of IDE/SATA adapter are you using? These are the design type which seem to be most compatible with the Xbox:-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191162025480

It is the type I am using with a 320GB SATA WD HDD and its worked fine for me.

If it is not that then maybe the HDD iteslf can't be locked. There is a list of Xbox lockable HDDs but it isn't comprehensive and you'd need to find somebody else who had used the same type successfully for confirmation.

I'll ask on some other forums but I think you need to post about this on a more active Xbox forum because if it isn't the HDD itself or IDE/SATA adapter I'm running out of ideas.

EDIT

Right, I posted your videos etc on another Xbox forum.

To start with Rocky5 recommends you use this latest version of Chimp:-

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17063965/Xbox/Sources/Chimp%20261812.zip

He's been working on the partitioning options in particular which is very relevant for your 2TB HDD.

Secondly, the consensus of opinion is that I was correct in thinking the problem is most likely caused by the IDE/SATA adapter not the HDD. They are also 99% sure the HDD is lockable simply because most modern HDDs are.

Thirdly, Rocky5 recommends you don't use the byte by byte cloning option. This should really just be reserved cloning identical size HDDs. In fact he's thinking of removing that option entirely from Chimp as it is unnecessary for most users and slower than the alternative.

Lastly, there are some questions about the videos:-

1). You chose the cloning method 'byte by byte' then the next thing seen is you're in the partitioning menu. Was the actual cloning process edited out or did that happen real-time?

2). Whatever happened you don't do the partitioning at that point. After cloning is when you lock the slave HDD.

3). Check the slave HDD is shown as locked using the device status menu option then exit Chimp and shutdown the Xbox. Detach the original HDD, swap the jumper on the slave drive to master and connect that up as the new master. Obviously connect the disc drive too.

Now re-start the Xbox and it should boot up OK. As you were using Chimp as an App that will have cloned too so boot into it again. Now is the time to use the partitioning options to format the extended (F and G) drives.

Once done exit Chimp and that should be it.


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dingdongyo
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Post Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 3:15 am   
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ok, well, to answer your previous question, the videos were not edited. i shot them on my phone and uploaded them straight to youtube.

i tried your suggetsions, and everything was looking good. i FTP-ed in the chimp version you linked (thank you!) made sure to switch the IDE plug from the DVD drive to the slave cloning drive before launching it, and went through FATX with the suggestions you made. it took a few tries, but i finally got it copied and locked. i confirmed that it was locked. then i formatted the remaining space to be all F drive.

shutdown, changed the jumper to master, replugged everything in with the cloned 2tb as the new master, and i'm getting error 13 on startup.

gaaaaaaaaaah.

i researched, and one suggestion was to use an 80 wire cable instead of the stock 40. the one i have is too short, but i made it work by setting a few things sideways. i'm still getting error 13.

the sticky on error 13 suggests using a game to update the dashboard somehow. i tried going to xbox live on xmen legends, outlaw volleyball, and ddr ultramix 2 to no avail. any suggestions on which games could force the update?


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ArchAngle
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Post Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 6:29 pm   
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If the original HDD was booting without issue and the cloning went OK the new HDD would have behaved very much as the original did and should have loaded the dashboard. So there is something wrong, somewhere.

The new HDD must have been locked OK or you'd be getting an error 5, error 13 is said to be a kernel/dashboard mismatch error but that should not be happening after a Chimp clone.

Remind me how was the original HDD softmodded? Was the dash updated before doing that to 5960? Refit the original HDD and use the MS dash > Settings > System Info to be sure of the details.

Whether it is something to do with the dash update or not I'd steer well clear of trying what you mentioned until you've looked into other options. One those would be to see if you can cold boot a rescue or installer disc.

The extended formating on the 2TB HDD you chose doesn't sound right to me although that should not have affected the main dash. I'm no expert on using larger HDD in the Xbox though so I'll have to get advice on that.

EDIT

This is exactly what Rocky5 posted when I explained the situation:-

"Tell him to clone it again & this time select C & E > F and G splits space evenly."


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dingdongyo
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Post Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:24 pm   
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Quote:
Tell him to clone it again & this time select C & E > F and G splits space evenly

Yes! Coincidentally, I tried formatting one more time with this setting last night (before seeing this edit) and it worked! It took MUCH longer to complete, which made a lot more sense. It's booting successfully now, and I was able to format the extended partitions and activate the G drive in the system menu. The hard part is finally over. You're the best!
Now it's just a matter of waiting for the longer cables to come in so I can put everything back together. This hack, no lie, prob took me a year's worth of mistakes. No way I could have gotten through this last part without your help. Thanks so much!


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ArchAngle
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Post Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 4:24 pm   
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Glad to help and hear you finally have it all working.


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dingdongyo
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Post Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:56 pm   
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Now it won't turn on at all. It was running fine, and i shutdown normally, and now it just won't turn back on. Nothing happens at all when i push the power button. i checked the cord, it's fine.

this sounds like a hardware thing, but i figured i'd ask here just to make sure. hardware issues are out of my league. i have no practice at soldering.


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ArchAngle
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Post Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 10:58 pm   
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It could be a number of things particularly as you've necessarily been working with the innards exposed.

But, unfortunately, the most common cause of a suddenly dead Xbox is the failure of the power supply board. It shouldn't be necessary to say this but the obvious can be overlooked so please check your power supply, the cable, the figure 8 plug and that the circuitbreaker or fuse in the mains plug connected to the Xbox are OK just to eliminated that possibility.

If you open the Xbox and (from the front) look on the right hand side the separate long, thin board is the PSU. If you disconnect it from the main board by pulling out the latched multi-connectpr plug attaching it to the socket you could test it using a multi-meter but only if you know what you're doing. Google research.

You can also look look for domed or leaking capacitors as these are the components that most often fail.

If it is the power board then you really are going to need a replacement and the problem with that is it means buying another Xbox, probably same version because not all Xbox power boards are interchangeable and, of course, one that powers up. Chances are that any which do are going to be just as repairable as your existing one or may even fully working so cannibalizing that would be pointless.


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dingdongyo
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Post Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 2:50 am   
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I restarted the project with a $20 Xbox from goodwill (because I don't know when to quit). I got everything in working order in one afternoon. I guess screwing up a billion times eventually reached you everything to NOT do.

So I have two relatively minor issues at this point:
1) I'm having a hard time getting the new drive to show a G drive. I've enabled the G drive in settings, and I tried formatting F and G both split evenly and F max, G takes rest. Still no show. Not sure what I'm doing differently from last time.

2) I'm trying to move some games over to the F drive via FTP (FileZilla) but it's working like crap. The connection works for 5-10 minutes, then drops for "too many users" or some other error. It doesn't work long enough to move a whole disc image over. Is there a better way to transfer?


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