Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 9:41 am Post subject: Supply Check - Wire size, solder, etc.
I'm about to mod a 1.6 x-box with an x-bit mod chip. I'm a newbie at soldering, but I picked up some supplies... just running a check to make sure i'm using the right ones.
Grabbed some tip tinner, I have used my iron before so i figured it should be cleaned.
some 60/40 Rosin core solder - .032 Diam, .50 oz
a spool of 26 guage wire.
a tube of 4" precut 30 guage wire.
I have the iron and the sponge/holder and all... anything else I need? Any general advice/tips?
Thanks all, I'll be joining VIP on this site soon.. lot of help here, it's worth it.
PorscheXboxster V.I.P. Member
Joined: Apr 21, 2004 Posts: 1067 Location: Virginia, USA
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 6:13 pm Post subject: Re: Supply Check - Wire size, solder, etc.
Arcnite wrote:
anything else I need?
I suck at soldering, but I've just started! I NEED desoldering braid, you may not! _________________ The World's Most Awesome Xbox 360 Room
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TheModGod Xbox-Hq Legendary
Joined: Apr 18, 2004 Posts: 5303 Location: Greensburg PA
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 6:21 pm Post subject:
The 26 guage wire is probably something that you wont need. It's too fat to fit in any of the mobo holes that you will be using to rebuild your LPC and also for the LFRAME which took place of the D0 hole in the 1.6's.
The .32 solder is what I have, but I have recently switched to thinner solder as it makes for a much much cleaner pinheader and install.
Also, if you want my opinion on soldering iron strength, use a 30 watt iron! When I use 15 watt irons, which most people suggest, I tend to have to leave the iron on the soldering point for much longer of a time. With a 30 watt iron, it heats up the point nicely and the solder adheres to the point much much faster, and better. I always end up with frigging gaps with the 15 watt.
You will use the 30AWG Wrapping wire for your LFRAME and LPC Rebuilding. It's single stranded, like you need. And, thin enough to fit in the holes.
Keep in mind that a percentage of 1.6 mobos have so much friggin lacquer on the them that you may need to use a fiberglass pen to scrape away the lacquer. Just be careful you dont scrape too much!!
A lot of people have a hard time stripping the 30AWG wire... I don't strip it...I put a little tinner on the iron tip and melt the wire casing. It tins the wire and strips it all in one same step. I then make sure I have a wet sponge nearby, use the tinner again on the iron tip and then wipe clean on the sponge.
Also, another 1.6 tip. When it comes time to rebuild the LPC, solder the wire to the mobo first. Do all five and then route them to the pinheader points and solder to those.
Last but not least, if after you reinstall your mobo and put everything back together your xbox doesn't power up...don't be alarmed. MS started using a low tolerant standby resistor. Sometimes when tinkering with, or removing the mobo will cause this resistor to blow. After the resistor blows you can't get your xbox out of standby. The resistor is located on the lower left hand side of the chip that is marked Xyclops. It is labled 2T. They are tedious, but easy to replace. Use a 2A resistor if this happens. They are much more tolerant and you shouldn't run into it again if you change to 2A.
Let me know if you have any questions.
later man
realmccloy
---------------------
http://www.xbox-hq.com http://www.themodgod.com _________________ Good Deals: Death@Hand, funkydopenloven, StaticMind, Slamscaper, PorscheXboxter
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Arcnite Xbox-HQ Newbie
Joined: Oct 08, 2004 Posts: 6 Location: San Diego
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 9:15 am Post subject:
Went out and grabbed some more supplies, desoldering braid, a new smaller tip for my iron and some Silver-Bearing solder. 96% tin and 4% silver, .032" dia. Not sure what you meant by thinner solder, but I saw this while I was looking for a smaller iron tip. Hopefully going to find time to actually get the board soldered tomorrow. Any suggestions on which solder to use? _________________ Xbox v1.6
XChip
Factory HD
*currently Fragging*
- Arcnite
TheModGod Xbox-Hq Legendary
Joined: Apr 18, 2004 Posts: 5303 Location: Greensburg PA
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 3:55 pm Post subject:
I use .022 for soldering pinheaders and. 15 for doing LED mod work.
I don't know how to describe thinner anymore than....well....thinner. Not as fat maybe. Skinnier??
I just found that the .032 lays down a pretty big glob of solder and I can control the .022 and .015 flow and placement a lot better. Plus, it does't make as much smoke..HA.
it seems that you have everything in place, good luck!
realmccloy
-----------------------
http://www.xbox-hq.com http://www.themodgod.com _________________ Good Deals: Death@Hand, funkydopenloven, StaticMind, Slamscaper, PorscheXboxter
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PorscheXboxster V.I.P. Member
Joined: Apr 21, 2004 Posts: 1067 Location: Virginia, USA
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 3:59 pm Post subject:
realmccloy wrote:
Plus, it does't make as much smoke..HA.
Awwww! Where's the fun in THAT... The more smoke the better!
My motto: If'n You Ain't Hackin' , You Ain't Hackin'! _________________ The World's Most Awesome Xbox 360 Room
[X X X X X X . . . .]% complete
-----------------------------------------
Xbox 360 x 2
V1.0???
---
Xbox v1.4 Halo
X2.3Blite
4981.06
---
Xbox v1.4 Non-Halo
X2.3B
4983.06
Arcnite Xbox-HQ Newbie
Joined: Oct 08, 2004 Posts: 6 Location: San Diego
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 11:08 pm Post subject:
ah, okay, I just interpretted what you said wrong. I thought you were saying thinner as in the consistency of the solder, not the width. I gotcha now. Going to be giving this a shot today....... _________________ Xbox v1.6
XChip
Factory HD
*currently Fragging*
- Arcnite
Arcnite Xbox-HQ Newbie
Joined: Oct 08, 2004 Posts: 6 Location: San Diego
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 7:26 am Post subject:
Finished the soldering... Reassembled it and powered up... sure enough, fragging. It blinks yellow a few times.. pauses for a sec... blinks yellow a few times then starts rapidly blink red/yellow. Same if I power up using power button or eject button. I haven't tried doing anything with the usb programmer yet. Any ideas? _________________ Xbox v1.6
XChip
Factory HD
*currently Fragging*
- Arcnite
TheModGod Xbox-Hq Legendary
Joined: Apr 18, 2004 Posts: 5303 Location: Greensburg PA
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 2:09 pm Post subject:
red and yellow??
Are you sure it's not green?
Your problem lies within your solder job. Check for gaps, bridges, splashes. Check your LPC rebuild. Use a continuity tester and check from the LPC to the mobo hole where you soldered the wire to. See if you have continuity. You can do the same on the pinheader top, to solder point on the bottom of mobo. See if you have continuity.
The fact that you have power is a good thing. The LFRAME solder (took place of the D0, since there is no D0 on a 1.6) must be good, otherwise you wouldn't have gotten the frag.
don't feel bad, my first fragged too...hehehe _________________ Good Deals: Death@Hand, funkydopenloven, StaticMind, Slamscaper, PorscheXboxter
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PorscheXboxster V.I.P. Member
Joined: Apr 21, 2004 Posts: 1067 Location: Virginia, USA
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 4:16 pm Post subject:
realmccloy wrote:
red and yellow??
Are you sure it's not green?
OK, that threw me, too. I almost responded that it was probably the solder job, but i didn't know what the yellow light meant! _________________ The World's Most Awesome Xbox 360 Room
[X X X X X X . . . .]% complete
-----------------------------------------
Xbox 360 x 2
V1.0???
---
Xbox v1.4 Halo
X2.3Blite
4981.06
---
Xbox v1.4 Non-Halo
X2.3B
4983.06
twelve Xbox-HQ User
Joined: Sep 05, 2004 Posts: 10 Location: Canada
Posted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 5:07 am Post subject:
Arcnite, get it going yet, I'm where you are Let us know what you find.
TheModGod Xbox-Hq Legendary
Joined: Apr 18, 2004 Posts: 5303 Location: Greensburg PA
Posted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 3:51 pm Post subject:
Most likely if you are getting a frag right from the start like that it's the chip placement/solder.
Check for gaps where the pinheader pins come out of the LPC holes. Make sure there's enough solder on them, but not so much that it bridges with another pin.
Actually, a frag is a good thing as at least it knows it is supposed to boot whatever is in the LPC
realmccloy
-------------------------
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twelve Xbox-HQ User
Joined: Sep 05, 2004 Posts: 10 Location: Canada
Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:10 am Post subject:
OK, took a week off cause strike is over so had to get back into getting up early and crap for work. Went at it tonight and found some bad ugly work I did to my LPC. Fixed that up, now XBOX doesn't frag when I push the power button once. If I hold it down for 2 or 5 seconds it wont boot, no error, it just reboots and starts up with out the chip enabled (when I say reboots I mean as if it is gonna frag, on off on off on frag, but instead its on off on, but with chip disabled). I have done some reading and found that there are issues with the D0 point on the 1.6 boards with the aladdin live chips. Do I have to install an external switch for this to work? Or is it something else I am over looking?
Oh yeah, realmccloy, I really appreciate all of the words of wisdom you have already given me. If we lived closer, I'd buy you a beer
TheModGod Xbox-Hq Legendary
Joined: Apr 18, 2004 Posts: 5303 Location: Greensburg PA
Posted: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:41 am Post subject:
Ha..thanks for the sentiment!! I just wish I knew more about the Aladdin chips. I'd start working on being worthy of a six pack
realmccloy
-----------------------
http://www.xbox-hq.com http://www.themodgod.com _________________ Good Deals: Death@Hand, funkydopenloven, StaticMind, Slamscaper, PorscheXboxter
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