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GabrielK
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 8:15 am   
Post subject: Noctua Fan Installed Need Power Wiring Help
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I have installed a Noctua NF R8 PWM fan everything is installed the only thing I had to do was to remove the 3 pins on the motherboard for the fan connection and I soldered in a plug into the motherboard so I can remover the fan when I need to, I used the extension cable that came in the fan box for the connector thats wired to the motherboard using 3 wires, the same way as if I had plugged the fan into the motherboard. All is good but I cant get much fan speed from using the stock 3 wires on the mobo I kind of know that I can use the molex power supply cable or another way so that the 12 volt fan gets 12 volt all the time, what I really need to know is whats the best way to power the fan and how/where to solder the wires? I have upped the fan speed in UnleashX system settings to the highest "5" but it does not change very much even with a reboot and im getting CPU temps up to 48 degrees but I turned it off at 48 degrees knowing something was wrong.
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GabrielK
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 8:23 am   
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I forgot to mention about the fans 3 wires that im using, im using the 3 wires from the fan that plugs into the plastic holder but the fan has 4 wires the 4th im not using


FRONT OF CONSOLE

| | [x] = Black
| |
| | [x] = Yellow
| |
| | [x] = Green

BACK OF CONSOLE


The above is the 3 pins on the motherboard the lines on the left next to the pins is the plastic lock for the fan plug holder, this is a top down view of the motherboard.

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AdmiralShlong
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Xbox Version: 1.1 & 360E 500
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 9:20 am   
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Celsius or Fahrenheit? You should not be worried about 48C temps. With my fan speed at 50% and good thermal compound I get idle temps of 60C on my CPU, 40C on my GPU. Also notable, my fan is really low CFM, peaks at about 18. You still want better temps though, then keep reading.

The way you have it plugged in now is the best way, don't bother with that. If the fan has a molex plug on it in addition to the four wire, you can get a molex y splitter like is used with Chimp261812. Plug the Xbox molex into the splitter, then one end in the HDD, but not fully inserted. Almost all of the way, because it will be tough to get out in the future. The fan in the leftover, in addition to leaving the four wire plug in the board.

If the fan does not have a molex plug, before you do anything else replace the stock thermal pads on your CPU & GPU's heatsinks. Getting the clamps off the sinks and cleaning off the old pads is the hardest part.

These are straight forward tasks, but each will take a while. The clamps look weak, but they can take a decent beating, just be slow when flexing them horizontally to get over the little black lips. The clamps can possibly snap though it is unlikely. Also when dealing with the clamps you must mind the surrounding capacitors, you can slip and bust one off or puncture one.

My favorite way to get the CPU clamp off is to lift the lever then pull horizontally toward myself, then wedge a super skinny screwdriver between the clamp and the black lip, and just slowly wiggle and pull out and up. The GPU is a little harder because it doesn't have a lever, but it shan't be too hard to get the clamp off. The hard part for me with the GPU is usually the heatsink being really stuck to the chip and I mean really stuck. The first time I did one I had to call someone to come over and help me rip it off. The other ones were't quite as bad after that though.

I used QC spray for electronics and 91% isopropyl and it took me about two hours of scrubbing with industrial paper towels and cotton swabs to get the entirety of those nasty old pink turds off. After that just apply whatever you choose to use in replacement and reassemble.

I would recommend if you have never used thermal paste or grease before to use thermal pads instead. With how small the top of the CPU is, it's really easy to use too much and spill over onto the green part, which you really don't want. If you want to try paste or grease though, go for it, but don't buy just any, I can recommend a few products if you are interested. If you go with pads though, just cut the pads to the size of the blue part of the CPU and the whole surface of the GPU. With pads though, you have to give them 'burn in time' where you idle for some amount of hours, usually described on the package, to let the pads melt and fully work from then on. After that there is nothing to worry about as long as you cut them to the right size. Although you could melt them with the system off, using something like a hairdryer, but I have ever tried it. Sorry, that was a lot more info than I intended.

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GabrielK
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 12:27 pm   
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When I had the stock fan I was at about 28C in idle and 46C when I was FTPing thats why I got worried and turned it off I will let it run to see what it peaks at but I would like to get the same or better results from the stock fan, I have replaced the thermal pads with MX4 thermal past that has no cure in time and I agree 100% about how difficult getting the heat sinks off was I could of used a crowbar with a 2 meter leverage pole attached to the crowbar and still would of had a hard time with it. If I wire the black wire from the fan to a place on the motherboard like a screw hole or metal casing and get rid of the green wire and keep the yellow wire where it is would this make the fan run at full speed all the time at 12 volts?
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AdmiralShlong
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 6:04 pm   
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Really, MX-4 that is good stuff. So 26C was your idle after hours, damn. The main reason people usually install an 80mm fan is to promote airflow to the HDD, but I have never seen such a rise in chip temps afterword.

Why don't you set the fan to manual at 100% speed, then scan it for a bit? You could then leave the settings if it clocks desirable temps, or you could solder the black wire to the bottom of the board where modders usually power solderless mod-chips. The wire might not reach without extension though. Either way, with setting or wired, it is still getting 100% power. What is the CFM on that Noctua by the way?

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320GB ST3320620A 7200RPM 16MB Cache
Gellid GC-Extreme Thermal Compound
StarTech 80 Conductor U-ATA Cable
80mm Xilence Hydro Bearing Fan
X-DU Chip & Toggle Switch
Taiyo Yuden Clock Cap
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GabrielK
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 10:20 pm   
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No no what I meant was with the original fan the idle was about 28C but now I am at 45C with the Noctua and both fans have been with MX4 so I dont know why im getting different results I was hoping for better results as the noctua is bigger, quieter and has about 53 CFM on their website is:

Airflow 53,3 m/h
Static Pressure 1,41 mm H₂O
Rotational Speed (+/- 10%) 1800 RPM

I have even made a makeshift plastic and duct tape cover over the hole space from where the HDD cage was cut just to see if the air was getting "used" up from between the fan and cage (so now there is reduced suction from the HDD and hopefully more being pulled from the CPU but my plastic and duct tape is not perfect there is still gaps) and 45C is the best I can get at the moment all this by the way from a cold room. I am surprised at the little amount of air being blown out from the noctua fan compared to the stock I am going to get a 12 volt power source and compare them out of the case together just to feel the amount for clarity.

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GabrielK
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 10:25 pm   
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I forgot to mention about soldering the noctua with just the black and yellow wires so my 45C temps are with the fan at full speed
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AdmiralShlong
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Post Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:48 am   
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I understood the MX-4 was in with both fans. What I was trying to convey is that installing an 80mm in an Xbox breaks the seal inside the case and lessens the focus on the heatsinks to promote flow to the HDD. So regardless of the fan quality you will see a rise in chip temps. If all you cared about was the chip temps from the beginning you should have just installed a good 60mm. You could just get another HDD caddy, or fix yours, and try a good three wire 60mm, that will be the best way to improve temps at this point. Although you don't need better temps at this point.

Sorry you have to hear that now, but I am telling you that 45C is not even close to anything to worry about. Xbox CPU's are extremely heat resilient, I have seen them go as far as 75C without lag or freeze. The ducting was a good idea, but until it is totally sealed it's not worth the effort.

I am not sure why you are interested in soldering, if the fan speed is manually or automatically set to 100% speed with your dash, it will be no different from wiring full power to it. Unless you over power it, which is not a good idea, it's going to have the same flow. Outside of the Xbox case it might feel like more flow, but that is because it won't have anything behind and around it then. Once you rewire it it would be the same inside the box.

_________________
320GB ST3320620A 7200RPM 16MB Cache
Gellid GC-Extreme Thermal Compound
StarTech 80 Conductor U-ATA Cable
80mm Xilence Hydro Bearing Fan
X-DU Chip & Toggle Switch
Taiyo Yuden Clock Cap
Xbox 1.1 MainBoard
XBMC 3.5.3 Dash
iND-BiOS 5004
128MB RAM


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AdmiralShlong
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 8:55 pm   
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I just found something for you to try.

Get XBMC build 3.5.3 and run it as an app, if your temps improve as much as mine did in app then make it your dash. I would recommend the ProjectMayhem III skin by the way, really compact and clean. With the PM3 skin go to the power button on the far right of the home and system info to monitor your temps after you set the speed control to whatever you like.

With 3.5.3 as my dash I now have my auto temp control set to 50C, which is as low as you need to set it, and my idles are no higher than 45C on my chips and my HDD with my fan speed at 2%. Once you get used to the interface it really is one of the best, if not the best dashboards as well.

_________________
320GB ST3320620A 7200RPM 16MB Cache
Gellid GC-Extreme Thermal Compound
StarTech 80 Conductor U-ATA Cable
80mm Xilence Hydro Bearing Fan
X-DU Chip & Toggle Switch
Taiyo Yuden Clock Cap
Xbox 1.1 MainBoard
XBMC 3.5.3 Dash
iND-BiOS 5004
128MB RAM


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GabrielK
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Posts: 40

Post Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 1:08 pm   
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That App sounds very good I will look it up some more and some day after Xmas I will give it a go but for now with my soldered wires for the fan set to 12volt constent I am getting good results, I have a 500GB sata HDD that I will eventually get around to installing again but I removed it because of the heat problems on a non chopped HDD caddy though my main reason for the fan upgrade was to make the whole system quieter I didnt know I could just plonk a 60mm fan in that would be quiet too but now I have a win win situation for when my 500GB HDD goes back in.
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ArchAngle
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Posts: 133

Post Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 11:58 pm   
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I'd say simply don't trust the reported temperatures when using UnleashX or EvoX. Treat the temperatures they show after your typical Xbox use as s baseline and set the UnleashX temperature threshold 10 degrees Centigrade above that.

XBMC temperatures are always different from any other dash and are much more like what you'd expect after redoing the thermal paste with MX-4 (which is what I used too).

I used exactly the same application technique on the PC I'm using now and that idles at below 30C. Yet with the Xbox UnleashX showed no reported temperature improvements at all after I'd applied MX-4. XBMC figures were down 5 - 10 degrees.

Incidentally I've also noticed that v1.6 Xboxes tend to run hotter in any circumstances and, strangely, 46 degrees Centigrade is typical of what my v1.6 Xboxes with UnleashX dashes also report.

That temperature is certainly nothing to get worried about even if it is true.

Installing XBMC as an app really takes little time, it is no big deal. All you need to do is find the latest version XBMC4Xbox v3.5.5 download it (roughly 60MB - 100MB zipped/rarred). FTP it to your Xbox, unpack it and then copy it into your Apps folder.

Reboot UnleashX and that's it.

A good skin to use with it is the updated Xbox-Classic - it is the most XBMC noob friendly one there is.


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AdmiralShlong
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Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 9:24 pm   
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XBMC 3.5.5 is out already, man those blokes are fast! I'll have to check it out. Also it is a good idea to delete all language packs in XBMC that you won't ever use. It comes with many languages that when all deleted besides a few really drops a lot of unneeded ballast. I still haven't had a problem with doing this, but you might want to keep an uncut copy of XBMC in case some plugin gets unresponsive without all packs intact.

So 1.6's are a little spicy eh? I haven't dealt with even a single one, what is the real advantage of a 1.6 over the previous mainboard versions? From what I have heard they sound like a version I don't want. Those goofy Xcalibur video encoders, no extra RAM chip slots, a unique PSU to board plug, where is the desire? They do have damn fine DVD drives though, Samsung or Thompson right? I am interseted in getting one and putting it in my favourite 1.1, the old Philips' noise is rising, and it's having trouble with copying some not quite horrible condition discs.

_________________
320GB ST3320620A 7200RPM 16MB Cache
Gellid GC-Extreme Thermal Compound
StarTech 80 Conductor U-ATA Cable
80mm Xilence Hydro Bearing Fan
X-DU Chip & Toggle Switch
Taiyo Yuden Clock Cap
Xbox 1.1 MainBoard
XBMC 3.5.3 Dash
iND-BiOS 5004
128MB RAM


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